A Steam Dream Come True
[imgbelt img=jefftrainchug528.jpg]The steam trains roll again. And fanatic Jefferson Sinclair is on board,
rolling from Winston-Salem through the beautiful Blue Ridge to Roanoke,
Ever since I can remember, I’ve been hooked on railroads. From my first train set to my first cross-country train trip, railroading’s been in my blood. I’m a member of countless railroad groups and have ridden behind everything from Amtrak’s Acela to an 100-year-old steam engine. The latter I find particularly interesting. Steam engines have a mechanical complexity and intricacy that is virtually unmatched anywhere in any industry.
There’s something about how it all works: the fire, the steam, the mess of connecting rods and levers that make it all happen. Every time I think about it, I’m bewildered. So when I heard that Norfolk Southern, one of the main Eastern railroad companies, was running an excursion out of Winston-Salem powered by a steam engine, I didn’t hesitate to buy a ticket.
The morning of June 24th, I was in Winston-Salem waiting on a bus that would take us to the train yard where we would board. As I looked around at my compatriots, I became a bit nervous.
Some “railfans” are real zealots—they’ll argue vehemently about everything from the largest locomotive (clearly Chesapeake and Ohio’s Allegheny) to bizarre details (the correct spacing of grab irons on 1940’s era boxcars). I’m a pretty big hypocrite when it comes to this, but I nevertheless hoped I wouldn’t be sucked into a discussion about the finer points of mallet vs. simple articulated locomotives.
One fellow ticket-holder approached me: “Hi! Where are you from?” He introduced himself as Dave. It turns out that Dave is from Winston-Salem and was eager to ride because the train takes a route never traveled by modern passenger trains, with sights that can only be seen from the tracks. We talked about the train, about college, work, and all sorts of different things, and before long, the journey assumed a very social atmosphere.
The bus got underway, and after a short time, we got to the railyard. We were ushered on to the train and, before long, were heading out.
[imgcontainer left] [img:jefftraintwosome250.jpg] [source]Jefferson SinclairTwo men watch Norfolk Southern’s excursion train as it passes through Winston-Salem.
Leaving Winston-Salem, we were greeted with the sight of hundreds of people from all walks of life along the tracks. Some held cameras, some waved, some did both. This was a Sunday excursion, and every church we passed yielded a large crowd of church-goers in their Sunday best, waving to the train and taking pictures with their iPhones. Norfolk Southern employees got in on the action too: many of them, identifiable by their florescent vests, took photos as the train rolled by. Even some of the crew members paused in their duties to take pictures of the locomotive when the train rounded a curve.
Some of the more hardcore railfans paced the train on the roadway next to the tracks—leading to a traffic mess of epic proportions. Everyone was going about 20 miles an hour under the speed limit, jockeying for position right next to the locomotive. Of course, the locomotive itself was the main attraction—a real, live, breathing steam engine. This was unlike anything else the railroad had to offer—a vintage steam engine with passenger cars straight out of the streamliner era!
We continued on, leaving Winston-Salem behind and heading through the countryside. Along the way, we saw countless spectators, young and old. My favorite had to be the group of teenagers in the Mayo River, who seeing the train passing, immediately jumped for their iDevices and posed, no doubt for a Facebook profile picture. Graham Claytor, once president of the Southern Railroad and a big steam engine fan, once said, “It is a good thing to let another generation know what a steam locomotive is.” I completely agree. The excursion is a moving history lesson. Steam engines haven’t run in regular mainline service since the 1950s, and, sadly, many Americans today have never had the chance to see one for themselves. The steam powered railroads grew up with America, and they’re a vital part of our heritage. As one passenger remarked when we passed an abandoned factory: “That and this train, this steam engine, that’s what made America great.”
It was a veritable parade for the town, complete with live entertainment from local musicians, memorabilia vendors, and naturally the train, which marched proudly down the main street (or at least along the tracks next to it). The train was a celebrity in every small town we passed through. Henry, Rocky Mount, and all the small towns in between were packed with spectators. Brochures were handed out on the train, encouraging the passengers to return some time.
Many of the passengers themselves hailed from these small burgs. A family of 15, riding the train together, explained to me that they were from Henry, Virginia, a town along the route. As we passed through, they grew excited and pointed out all the people they knew: friends, neighbors, family, all had turned out to watch the train go by. And the folks on the train were equally excited. Sarah, one of the family members, said it’s a big deal for people—it’s an exciting and rare opportunity for people to ride the train through their hometown. “Passenger trains don’t pass this way,” though they should, she added.
Rural stations were the first to be cut by the railroads, and sadly many have not seen a passenger train in decades. Reliving the past of these tiny country towns and seeing your hometown through the very literal window of history adds to the mystique and grandeur of this exceedingly rare event.
Higher and higher into the Blue Ridge we climbed. We stopped twice: once for a routine inspection, and once because the A/C on our train car broke down (it was quickly fixed). All the cars were beautifully restored vintage 1950s streamliners that had served on illustrious trains like Norfolk and Western’s Powhatan Arrow and Southern’s Crescent. Having been “worn out several times,” according to Chris, they’ve been painstakingly renovated to their original splendor.
Sitting on board, I couldn’t help but imagine all the people who had sat there before me, whose departures and destinations will forever be unknown but who looked out the same windows and shared a journey not altogether different from mine. The riders on the excursion are just the newest guests and the newest story of a train car better than half a century old.
As for me, I’m not too worried about the corporate justification. Just keep the trains running—that’s all I care about. Not a whole lot of people in my generation are interested in trains, and even fewer in steam. But I love steam trains. They’re something else entirely: history, physics, mechanics, all rolled into a massive, noisy, sooty giant that is endlessly fascinating.
I’m going to chase steam engines as long as they exist—and when I dream of winning the lottery, one of the first questions I ask myself is which historic steamer I’ll restore first. Diesels? They’re alright. But for me, it’s got to be steam. They’re part of us now, ingrained in our culture and inseparable from our civilization. As long as these trains run, and as long as a steam engine snorts and bellows and stomps its way down the track somewhere in the globe, generations will fall asleep with the rhythm of a locomotive in their heads. And they will dream of steam.
• For more about the 21st Century Steam Program, visit this website.
•For tickets (hurry up, they’re moving quick!) visit here.
Jefferson Sinclair is an intern at the Center for Rural Strategies in Whitesburg, KY, and a student at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill as well as being a self-proclaimed train fanatic.